The Figure of Eight on the Bight

The Figure of Eight is one of the commonest climbing knots - it comes in two forms: the rethreaded version and the bight version shown here.

Attribute	Notes
Strength	75%
Ease of Tying	Very easy to tie.
Recognisable	Easy to recognise a well formed knot but also easy to pass a malformed knot.
Also known as	.
Usage	Tying in to the rope. Forming attachment points in the rope for belays
Advantages	Strong. Easy to tie. Versatile - most other knots can be substituted by combinations of this knot.
Disadvantages	Once the knot has been loaded it becomes difficult to undo. This difficulty increases when the rope is wet and with increased load. Not good for tying in the middle of the rope as it does not hold well under lateral tension.